What is Glycolic Acid ? What are its benefits, explained

Glycolic acid’s rise in Indian skincare: why everyone’s talking about it

If you’ve been googling the benefits of glycolic acid in skincare and wondering whether it’s right for Indian skin, you’re not alone. From Instagram routines to salon facials, glycolic acid has become a hero ingredient for glow, tan removal lookalikes, acne marks, and rough texture. But in hot, humid, pollution-heavy Indian cities, the real question is: how do you get those results without ending up red, sensitive, or uncomfortably dry?

• It’s a fast-acting exfoliating acid that can make dull skin look fresher and more even-toned in a few weeks when used correctly.
• It helps smooth rough, bumpy areas and refine the look of pores, which many urban Indian users struggle with thanks to pollution and hard water.
• It’s now widely available in Indian pharmacies and online stores in toners, serums, and even cleansers at different price points.
• When combined with hydrating, barrier-supporting products, it can fit into a simple 3–4 step routine that busy students and professionals can realistically follow.

What glycolic acid is and how it works on your skin

Glycolic acid is a water-soluble alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), originally derived from sugarcane. Because its molecule is very small, it can penetrate the upper layers of skin efficiently and is widely used in superficial chemical peels to improve fine lines, photoageing, acne, and pigmentation.^[src2]

• It loosens the “glue” (desmosomes) holding dead cells together in the top layer of skin, so they shed more evenly instead of building up as dullness and rough patches.
• It increases cell turnover, encouraging fresher, more evenly pigmented cells to come to the surface over time.
• Penetration depends on pH, concentration, and how long it stays on your skin: lower pH, higher percentages, and longer contact times all increase absorption—and with it, the risk of irritation if not used carefully.^[src4]
• At appropriate strengths, glycolic acid mainly works in the top layers of the skin, so it’s considered a superficial, surface-focused exfoliant rather than something that “thins” the entire skin.

Core benefits of glycolic acid in skincare for Indian skin

Used carefully, glycolic acid can help address many of the same concerns that bring people in India to dermatologists for peels—dullness, uneven tone, acne marks, and early photoageing—by removing excess dead cells and encouraging more even renewal of the upper skin layers.^[src3]

• Brighter, more even-looking tone: By lifting away pigmented, dead surface cells, glycolic acid can make skin look fresher and more "awake", which many Indian users describe as a glow or reduced tan look (although it does not literally “remove” sun tan overnight).
• Smoother texture: Regular use can soften rough patches on the cheeks, forehead, and around the mouth, and help makeup sit more evenly instead of clinging to dry flakes.
• Refined look of pores: By keeping the mouth of the pore clearer of dead cells and sebum, glycolic acid can make pores look less obvious on nose and T-zone—especially useful in humid, pollution-heavy cities.
• Support for acne marks and superficial scars: Gentle, repeated exfoliation can help soften the look of post-acne marks and shallow textural irregularities over time, especially when combined with sunscreen and pigment-balancing ingredients.
• Early fine lines and photoageing: By promoting regular shedding and renewal, glycolic acid can contribute to a smoother, more even surface, making early fine lines appear less prominent when combined with daily sun protection and moisturisers.
• Better penetration for other skincare: Removing excess dead cells can help hydrating serums and moisturisers absorb more evenly, which is especially helpful if you’re investing in good serums but not seeing results.

Does glycolic acid make skin dry? Understanding exfoliation, barrier damage, and hydration

Many people stop using glycolic acid because their skin suddenly feels tight, flaky, or extra sensitive. Dryness, stinging, redness, and peeling are recognised side effects of stronger glycolic acid products and peels, especially when used too often or on already sensitive skin.^[src7]

• Over-exfoliation: Using a strong glycolic toner or serum every single day from the start is one of the biggest reasons people experience glycolic acid making skin dry, itchy, or uncomfortable.
• Barrier already compromised: If your cleanser is very foaming, you use hot water, or you’re on acne medications, even a mild glycolic formula can feel like “too much”, leading you to feel that glycolic acid makes skin dry no matter what you do.
• Skipping moisturizer: Glycolic acid is an exfoliant, not a hydrating cream. Using it without following up with humectants (like hyaluronic acid or glycerin) and an emollient-rich moisturiser will almost guarantee increased dryness over time.
• Stacking strong actives: Combining glycolic acid with scrubs, retinoids, high-strength vitamin C, or frequent salon facials in the same week can push your barrier past its limits, especially in drier climates or in AC-heavy offices.
• Indian weather realities: Hot, humid days can trick you into thinking skin is “oily enough”, but strong air-conditioning, long commutes, and pollution can still dehydrate the barrier underneath. Hydration and barrier care are non-negotiable if you use acids regularly.

Choosing the right glycolic acid format, strength, and frequency

For home use, most people do best with low to moderate-strength leave-on products and a slow, steady schedule. In contrast, dermatology clinics may use glycolic acid peels in the 10–30% range for acne and pigmentation, and even higher strengths (around 30–70%) for carefully selected cases like melasma, always under professional supervision with strict timing and neutralisation.^[src3][src6]

• If you’re a beginner, choose just one glycolic product (not a whole acid-filled routine) and limit use to 1–2 nights a week for the first month.
• Avoid applying glycolic acid on days you’ve threaded, waxed, shaved closely, or used other strong actives like retinoids or physical scrubs.
• Always wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen in the daytime; exfoliated skin is more vulnerable to UV damage, which can worsen pigmentation in Indian skin tones.
• Listen to your skin: if you notice increasing dryness or sensitivity, reduce frequency before changing to a higher strength.

Designing a safe glycolic acid skin care routine that keeps skin hydrated

Notice that glycolic acid sits in the “treatment” step, not the moisturiser step. Using glycolic acid as a moisturizer is a common mistake; it must always be followed by hydrating and barrier-supporting layers. Over time, this kind of balanced glycolic acid skin care routine gives you a better chance of maintaining glow without triggering long-term sensitivity.

When glycolic acid is not the best choice: sensitive, dry, or over-treated skin

Glycolic acid is not for every situation. If your barrier is already compromised, even gentle strengths can feel like pouring lemon on a paper cut. People with very dry or sensitive skin, a history of eczema or atopic dermatitis, or those on strong prescription treatments need particularly cautious, dermatologist-guided plans rather than experimenting with acids on their own—especially in Indian and other deeper skin tones that are more prone to post-inflammatory darkening when irritated.

• Your face burns for more than a few minutes every time you use glycolic acid, even at low strengths.
• You see new, patchy darkening (or light spots) in areas where you applied glycolic acid, instead of older marks slowly fading.
• Your skin feels rough, tight, and flaky all the time, not just for a couple of days after application.
• You are dealing with active skin conditions like eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, rosacea-like flushing, or have recently undergone in-clinic peels, laser, or microneedling.
• You’re pregnant, breastfeeding, or on strong prescription medications—these require personalised medical guidance, not generic internet routines.

How hydrating, barrier-strengthening serums complement glycolic acid

A well-formulated hydrating serum acts like a safety net around your glycolic acid use: it cushions the barrier, maintains comfort, and allows you to keep using exfoliants without tipping into chronic dryness. Mystiqare’s Rejuvenating Face Serum is an example of this type of product—it’s a feather-light gel-serum designed for daily AM and PM use in Indian heat and humidity, featuring niacinamide, Japanese Yuzu ceramide, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, and Mystiqare’s proprietary Tsuyaqare complex to support hydration, texture, and barrier resilience in a non-comedogenic, dermatologist-tested formula.^[src1]

• On glycolic nights: Cleanse, apply your glycolic acid product, then layer Rejuvenating Face Serum to quickly replenish hydration before sealing with a moisturiser. This helps offset the dryness that can build up over repeated exfoliation sessions.
• On non-glycolic nights: Skip acids entirely and let your skin recover with a simple routine—cleanser, Rejuvenating Face Serum, moisturiser. This gives your barrier breathing space while still maintaining glow and hydration.
• In the morning: After cleansing, apply a thin layer of the serum and follow with sunscreen. This keeps skin comfortable under makeup and sun exposure, and complements any exfoliation you do at night.

Everyday troubleshooting with glycolic acid

• Skin stings for more than a few minutes after application: Rinse off, apply a bland moisturiser, and skip acids for at least a week. When you restart, use a lower strength, shorter contact time, or reduce to once a week.
• Flakiness around nose, mouth, or chin: Decrease frequency, add a hydrating serum and richer moisturiser, and avoid picking at flakes. If your workplace AC is very strong, focus on barrier repair products on workdays and use glycolic only on weekends.
• Breakouts seem worse after starting glycolic acid: Mild, short-lived “purging” can happen, but worsening, painful acne is a sign to stop acids and speak to a dermatologist rather than increasing strength or frequency.
• Makeup looks patchier or cakier: Your base might be clinging to micro-flakes from over-exfoliation. Pause acids, add a hydrating serum like Rejuvenating Face Serum plus a non-greasy moisturiser, and reintroduce glycolic less often once skin feels smooth again.
• Skin looks darker or patchier: Stop all acids, use sunscreen diligently, and shift to a barrier-repair and brightening routine under professional guidance instead of trying stronger peels at home.

Common mistakes people make with glycolic acid

• Starting with the strongest product you can find instead of a beginner-friendly strength and schedule.
• Using glycolic acid on the same day as threading, waxing, dermaplaning, or shaving the face closely, when skin is already sensitised.
• Layering physical scrubs, high-strength vitamin C, retinol, and glycolic acid in the same routine “for faster results”, which usually backfires as irritation and pigmentation.
• Treating glycolic acid as a moisturizer and skipping proper hydrating serums and creams, then wondering why the skin feels tight and looks dull again after a few weeks.
• Ignoring daily sunscreen, especially in Indian summers and on commutes, which can undo any brightening benefits and increase the risk of uneven pigmentation.

Common questions about using glycolic acid in everyday skincare

Used wisely, glycolic acid can be a powerful tool for smoother, brighter, more even-looking skin—but only when you respect your barrier, introduce it slowly, and buffer it with smart hydration. If you’re ready to balance exfoliation with everyday comfort, consider adding a hydrating, barrier-strengthening step like Mystiqare’s Rejuvenating Face Serum to your routine so your skin stays resilient long after the initial glow.